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TACLOBAN CITY | CELEBRATING JO’S MILAGRINA SECOND YEAR

There are a lot of restaurants and coffee shops now in Tacloban City.  But there are a few that remains my favorite.  Seldom do I go home and I must say it must be a quality time spent for homecoming.

Jo’s Milagrina of Burgos Street, Tacloban City is one of those I frequent every time I go home.  The chicken inato is a given at this family style dining restaurant.  The garden ambiance even makes it more conducive for celebrations.  And fortunately, I was there for the 2nd anniversary of Jo’s Milagrina Tacloban City branch.
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TACLOBAN CITY | LEAF LOUNGE OF IRONWOOD HOTEL

While growing up in Tacloban City, I have never experienced rooftop dining.  Simply because there was none to begin with.  But today, a number has emerged and have been added to the must-visits of the city.

For two consecutive homecomings this year, I have stayed at the Ironwood Hotel of Burgos Street, Downtown Tacloban City while our home is under renovation. 

The warm welcome and the efficient hospitality service they provide was a given.  Now it’s time to lounge at the rooftop bar and have a glimpse of the city lights and take a birds-eye view of the structures that surround.
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A DAY IN PALO, LEYTE

Our textbooks made mention of a certain municipality in Leyte standing witness to the world history.  It was in 1944 when General Douglas MacArthur landed at the Red Beach to liberate the Philippines from the Japanese Occupation.  To commemorate the said event, the MacArthur Landing Memorial National Park was built.

The said National Park has been the main attraction of Palo, Leyte.  I have been passing by the said memorial since my childhood but it appears ordinary for me.  As time passes by, I begin to appreciate how rich in history my home province is.

Lakas maka #SibikaAtKulturaGoals Hahahaha #itsmorefuninthephilippines #leyte #travelgram #travel
A photo posted by Kirk Acebron (@kirkacebron) on Jul 4, 2016 at 4:46pm PDT


But there is more in Palo, Leyte to discover.  On one afternoon, together with my travel buddy and two highschool classmates now based in Japan and Singapore, respectively, we were joined by another classmate who lives in Palo, Leyte.  It was a coincidence that we were gathered without plans.
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WHAT TO DO WITH A FAILED SAMBAWAN ISLAND VISIT

Travel time from Tacloban City to Naval Biliran is approximately 2.5 hours but due to heavy traffic and downpour en route, it took us almost 4 hours to reach Almeria, Biliran.

Our main mission for traveling to Biliran is simply for Sambawan Island.  The famed island is not that easy to reach.  Even on a slightly good weather, the seas are rough and riding with the waves is unpredictable, as shared by friends.  Inevitably, the worst is expected on our case as there is a low pressure area affecting the province of Biliran on our visit.
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TACLOBAN CITY’S SURVIVING PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST

We are all familiar with the man who uttered “I shall return.”  With his role in the Philippine history making the Province of Leyte in the forefront, specifically the municipality of Palo, surely, its neighboring city of Tacloban provides a fair share of the historical era that was.

There are structures in Tacloban City that withstood and spanned centuries for existence while others were newly built to mark recent happenings.
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TACLOBAN CITY | REUNITED WITH MY ONE CHEW LOVE

If there is one establishment in Tacloban City that represents resiliency, bliss, zest, dedication and hard work, it is Chew Love.  The façade speaks of its character and so as with its owner, a good friend, Coke Young-Go.

With bright colored graffiti and murals that makes you feel transported to an-almost-cartoon world, this one establishment along the P. Gomez Street of Tacloban City is definitely a head turner.
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TACLOBAN CITY | JO’S MILAGRINA

Just before the door closes to the public, the images of chicken, whether live, subject of paintings and installations greeted us at the main dining area.  There were a number of diners on a mood for a feast.  And there we were about to partake a mini-banquet after hours of being in the road enroute to Tacloban City.

Finally I am at Jo’s Milagrina, after a number of failed attempts of dining due to conflicts of schedule whenever I go home to Tacloban City.
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HAS THE GRANDEUR OF THE ROMUALDEZ MUSEUM VANISHED?

The world knows of the historic lavish lifestyle of the Marcoses five or more decades ago during President Ferdinand Marcos’ regime.  In Tacloban City, the same has been well-preserved and housed in a white painted building of a simple exterior.

More popularly known as the Sto. Nino Shrine, the Romualdez Museum fortunately survived the onslaught of Typhoon Haiyan and of course, the greedy souls of the looters and robbers.

Even with the dilapidation and tragic traces of the super typhoon on its ceilings, floors and even windows, the grandeur of what the edifice harbors remain.
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PALOMPON, LEYTE | CAFÉ UMBERTO

For two hours of travel time from Tacloban City via a private vehicle to Palompon, the dirt road presented no signs of fancy commercial establishments.  It’s not that we’re expecting some but the imposing rural landscape of vast rice fields, plowing farmers, water buffaloes (carabaos) in aid and aligned coconut trees on the side streets became a constant reminder that we are in the rural area.

Nearly ten in the evening, we passed by a plaza that sits in the middle of the town and where locals and visitors alike dine on monobloc chairs and tables; smoke from grillers hovers the vicinity.  It was a scene that we expected - hawker stalls of barbeque in a rural setting.  But we moved for indoors.

Surprisingly, there is an Italian restaurant at Palompon, Leyte and it comes by the name of Café Umberto.  There we settled for our first dinner on this part of the province.
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KALANGGAMAN ISLAND

Five years ago, I set foot on the powdery white sand surrounded by a mix of cerulean and turquoise waters of Kalanggaman Island in Palompon, Leyte.  It is a hidden sanctuary, a bird sanctuary as they say, thus, the name Kalanggaman (langgam means bird in Cebuano).  Privileged as we were, the whole island was left to our group, to bask and simply enjoy.

Fast forward to 2016, the island now appears a picnic area with a number of cottages and pitched colorful tents that sprout from every corner.  Despite the inevitable, the island retains its natural beauty, with the long stretch of the famed sandbar continuously mesmerizing the visitors.
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TACLOBAN CITY | IRONWOOD HOTEL

I was born and raised in Tacloban City.  Ever since I moved to Metro Manila for higher education and to earn a living, numbered are the days that I go home, and usually these are for special occasions.  To celebrate the Chinese New Year and because of a seat sale which my travel buddies have secured for me, I was able to visit my hometown unexpectedly.

Unexpected as it is, it is also the first time that I would be staying in a hotel at Tacloban City.  And that would be the newly-opened (1-day old), Ironwood Hotel.
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"I shall return." 

This is the famous statement of the late General Douglas MacArthur whose participation in the history of our country and liberation from foreign domination cannot be discounted.  As a tribute to the fulfillment of his promise to return to the Philippines after the Japanese occupation during the World War II, this historic memorial was built in Candahug Palo, Leyte.

Like the late General, it was part of my to-do list to go back to my hometown but take photos with these life-sized statues with the general and his men, including the late Philippine President Sergio Osmena Jr. and then General Carlos Romulo, standing under a man-made pool.  


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towards Leyte- view from Samar

As a reiteration of my childhood dream, one of those is to be able to cross that longest bridge in the Philippines and take a lot of photos  while on it. 

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My profession takes me to places where sometimes I can't complain, all for the cause of your clients.  My visit to the Province of Samar is no exception from such destiny of mine.  My impromptu visit to the province made me think of ways on how to explore and discover the province, despite the security issues and risks attendant to my visit during that time.

Maqueda Bay, Catbalogan, Samar at sunset
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Solace and freedom are the best ingredients of my dream travels.  With a lifestyle that seems to be at brisk every moment and trying to catch time as if it's the only means of survival, a visit to Palompon, Leyte's Kalanggaman Islet has changed my perspective of what life should be.

Rural living at its best.  This is what Kalanggaman Islet has to offer.

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Magsaysay Boulevard of Tacloban City is known for its several parks and recreation centers.  Ask not the locals as you might just get a negative feedback for its notorious impression of the area.  

Try to visit the place though, feed your curiousity and experience it for yourself. After all, we should have a sense of skepticism and stand for our own judgment, not merely based on hearsay.  I wasn't able to visit the parks at the Magsaysay Boulevard for my last homecoming but I am hoping this will be the subject of my next visit.  To name a few if the said parks, these include: the Childrens Park, the Botanical Garden and the vicinity of the Leyte Park Hotel.  The latter is actually more of a hotel rather than a park.


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Tagged as the longest and most beautifully-designed bridges in the Philippines, the San Juanico Bridge formerly known as the Marcos Bridge, is a must-see infrastructure, replete with historical and cultural value.

It was in the mid 1960s when the Marcos administration decided to erect the San Juanico Bridge over the San Juanico Strait.  The said strait connects Samar and Leyte, which made commerce easier for both provinces.  During my childhood, I heard stories of horror on the sacrifices and hard labor that were spent only to construct this bridge.  There were even stories of the bridge being protected by enchantments and unknown creatures.  But of course, there is no confirmation as to its truth.  The same remains a myth.  

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Babatngon, Leyte is a fourth class municipality in the province of Leyte.  Recently, this has been gaining popularity because of a well-landscaped haven named Rafael's Farm.  The farm is actually an events place cum restaurant, established for reunions, coffee breaks and location shoot for photography enthusiasts and hobbyists.  

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 facade of the Sto. Nino Shrine
Whatever appears to be simple is something that needs further confirmation.  The popular saying "Do not judge a book by its cover" is true for the Sto Nino Shrine and Heritage Museum.  The simplicity at its onset should not be trusted and is very much deceitful.

The Sto. Nino Shrine and Heritage Museum is the top tourist destination in Tacloban City and it is a shame that I was born and raised in the city yet I have not set foot in this structure.  

I decided to witness for myself why this has been tagged as a popular tourist destination so as to transport back in time and witness the grandeur of Romualdez and Marcos clans' way of living while under the seat of power and governance.

For the daughter of Tacloban, Madam Imelda Romualdez Marcos, the Sto. Nino Shrine and Heritage Museum was built by the late President Ferdinand Marcos as one of its 29 Presidential rest houses in the Philippines.  Today, the said property is managed by the PCGG as part of the ill-gotten wealth of the late President.


Getting technical by its name, a shrine is a holy or sacred place dedicated to a specific deity, hero, saint or similar figure at which they are worshipped.  Ironically, the building is named after the patron saint Sto. Nino, yet it showcases the lifestyle of the Romualdez clan, with a collection of antique paintings, sculptures, ceramics, pottery, furniture and fixtures from China, Vienna, Italy, Spain and other parts of Europe from renowned and known artists.  A recollection of what our tour guide told us revealed that a few of these collections include the carpets from Argentina, chandeliers from Czech Republic, tiles from Italy, mirrors from Austria displayed in every room, the silver chair which I sat from Spain, jars and a carved wooden cabinet in one of the rooms that smells like incense are from China and original paintings from national artist Fernando Amorsolo.  

Although upon entering the shrine, there is an altar of the Sto. Nino de Leyte which greets you and designed as a chapel too, the same is actually not open  and designed for patrons of the Sto. Nino to worship and offer gifts.  This would actually pass more of a museum than a shrine.

The shrine is open everyday even on weekends from 8AM to 5PM with one hour lunch break.  As to the entrance fees, 1st five persons cost 200 pesos, in excess of five, an additional fee of 20 pesos per head is charged.  If you have your camera, there is an extra charge of 30 pesos per camera and 200 pesos for video.

Upon entering the Museum, a change of footwear is a must and slippers are provided by the management on shades of blue, red or green as choices.  Every group is entitled to a tour guide.  The tour guide then opens the chandelier lights to have a view of the altar.  It should be noted that beside the replica of Sto. Nino are St. Vincent and St. Remedios, which remarkably are the names of Imelda's parents.

The photos I have taken inside the museum are not that clear due to the poor lighting system.  Ventilation also needs to be improved.  Everything else is grand and opulent. 

altar of the Sto. Nino de Leyte - chandeliers off

slippers (tsinelas) to choose from while on tour

warm welcome from Sto Nino de Leyte 



Both sides of the altar showcases 13 guest rooms with 13 different motiffs.  The rooms definitely stick to its motiff, for instance, a butterfly room has butterflies as part of its interiors, the Capiz rooms with capiz shells and so on, which mostly are named after provinces and showcases the products of the said provinces. Each room also displays framed signed photographs of Madam Imelda and the late President Marcos and dioramas depicting Madam Imelda's various projects throughout the Philippines ranging from health, tourism and infrastructure projects.

capiz shells in a Capiz room

mosaic of Jesus: tiles from Italy

for every guest room only the photo frame changes depending on the theme but the photos are a mainstay


one of the many dioramas

We could not help but discuss at how amazing, expensive and priceless such display of antique collections were.  The tour guide must have heard us and told us to wait until we reach the second floor.  

The second floor houses intricate and lavish collections. It was difficult to describe.  I hope I do justice by saying that the  following pictures would really paint a thousand words.  

wooden bas-relief of the legend of the First Filipino man-woman (Si Malakas at Si Maganda)

alitaptap (fireflies) room - named after its ceiling interiors

silver wedding anniversary pictures on a wall made of banig

The red-carpet grand staircase leading to the second floor as reflected in a large Austrian mirror
the Romualdez clan as painted by a female Spanish artist

spacious ballroom showcasing the grand and majestic wooden chandelier

ceramics from China used as either footrest or support for pillows

Photos of the late former President Marcos bedroom:



bathroom


Remarkable views from the eldest son's room, Ferdinand Marcos II

display of grades and award


collection of paper bill
A peek of the daughters rooms:

Imee's bed
Irene's room

Aimee's room with the yaya

There is no denying that that the Sto. Nino Shrine and Heritage Museum is basically all about Madam Imelda Marcos.  And so, we have to save the last for the best attraction.  Honestly, my friend and I thinks the mansion is more like of a haunted house, and if not really maintained, will certainly provide a creepy experience.

hallway leading to Imelda's bedroom

reflection of the chandeliers in what they call as the "endless mirror" - images are endless



jacuzzi

the bed



Souvenirs are also available at the right side of the altar, ground floor of the museum.



with our tour guide - damo na salamat! (thanks very much)

Location: Real Street, Tacloban City, Leyte
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I am a CPA-lawyer by profession and a full-time wanderer. My tsinelas (slippers) have been my constant companion in my quest to discover the world we live in. No matter which part of the world I am, though oftentimes mistaken of a different nationality, I am always proud to wear my slippers, a mark of a Filipino wanderer.

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