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TACLOBAN CITY | CELEBRATING JO’S MILAGRINA SECOND YEAR

There are a lot of restaurants and coffee shops now in Tacloban City.  But there are a few that remains my favorite.  Seldom do I go home and I must say it must be a quality time spent for homecoming.

Jo’s Milagrina of Burgos Street, Tacloban City is one of those I frequent every time I go home.  The chicken inato is a given at this family style dining restaurant.  The garden ambiance even makes it more conducive for celebrations.  And fortunately, I was there for the 2nd anniversary of Jo’s Milagrina Tacloban City branch.
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TACLOBAN CITY | LEAF LOUNGE OF IRONWOOD HOTEL

While growing up in Tacloban City, I have never experienced rooftop dining.  Simply because there was none to begin with.  But today, a number has emerged and have been added to the must-visits of the city.

For two consecutive homecomings this year, I have stayed at the Ironwood Hotel of Burgos Street, Downtown Tacloban City while our home is under renovation. 

The warm welcome and the efficient hospitality service they provide was a given.  Now it’s time to lounge at the rooftop bar and have a glimpse of the city lights and take a birds-eye view of the structures that surround.
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A DAY IN PALO, LEYTE

Our textbooks made mention of a certain municipality in Leyte standing witness to the world history.  It was in 1944 when General Douglas MacArthur landed at the Red Beach to liberate the Philippines from the Japanese Occupation.  To commemorate the said event, the MacArthur Landing Memorial National Park was built.

The said National Park has been the main attraction of Palo, Leyte.  I have been passing by the said memorial since my childhood but it appears ordinary for me.  As time passes by, I begin to appreciate how rich in history my home province is.

Lakas maka #SibikaAtKulturaGoals Hahahaha #itsmorefuninthephilippines #leyte #travelgram #travel
A photo posted by Kirk Acebron (@kirkacebron) on Jul 4, 2016 at 4:46pm PDT


But there is more in Palo, Leyte to discover.  On one afternoon, together with my travel buddy and two highschool classmates now based in Japan and Singapore, respectively, we were joined by another classmate who lives in Palo, Leyte.  It was a coincidence that we were gathered without plans.
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TACLOBAN CITY’S SURVIVING PLACES OF HISTORICAL INTEREST

We are all familiar with the man who uttered “I shall return.”  With his role in the Philippine history making the Province of Leyte in the forefront, specifically the municipality of Palo, surely, its neighboring city of Tacloban provides a fair share of the historical era that was.

There are structures in Tacloban City that withstood and spanned centuries for existence while others were newly built to mark recent happenings.
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TACLOBAN CITY | REUNITED WITH MY ONE CHEW LOVE

If there is one establishment in Tacloban City that represents resiliency, bliss, zest, dedication and hard work, it is Chew Love.  The façade speaks of its character and so as with its owner, a good friend, Coke Young-Go.

With bright colored graffiti and murals that makes you feel transported to an-almost-cartoon world, this one establishment along the P. Gomez Street of Tacloban City is definitely a head turner.
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TACLOBAN CITY | JO’S MILAGRINA

Just before the door closes to the public, the images of chicken, whether live, subject of paintings and installations greeted us at the main dining area.  There were a number of diners on a mood for a feast.  And there we were about to partake a mini-banquet after hours of being in the road enroute to Tacloban City.

Finally I am at Jo’s Milagrina, after a number of failed attempts of dining due to conflicts of schedule whenever I go home to Tacloban City.
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HAS THE GRANDEUR OF THE ROMUALDEZ MUSEUM VANISHED?

The world knows of the historic lavish lifestyle of the Marcoses five or more decades ago during President Ferdinand Marcos’ regime.  In Tacloban City, the same has been well-preserved and housed in a white painted building of a simple exterior.

More popularly known as the Sto. Nino Shrine, the Romualdez Museum fortunately survived the onslaught of Typhoon Haiyan and of course, the greedy souls of the looters and robbers.

Even with the dilapidation and tragic traces of the super typhoon on its ceilings, floors and even windows, the grandeur of what the edifice harbors remain.
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PALOMPON, LEYTE | CAFÉ UMBERTO

For two hours of travel time from Tacloban City via a private vehicle to Palompon, the dirt road presented no signs of fancy commercial establishments.  It’s not that we’re expecting some but the imposing rural landscape of vast rice fields, plowing farmers, water buffaloes (carabaos) in aid and aligned coconut trees on the side streets became a constant reminder that we are in the rural area.

Nearly ten in the evening, we passed by a plaza that sits in the middle of the town and where locals and visitors alike dine on monobloc chairs and tables; smoke from grillers hovers the vicinity.  It was a scene that we expected - hawker stalls of barbeque in a rural setting.  But we moved for indoors.

Surprisingly, there is an Italian restaurant at Palompon, Leyte and it comes by the name of Café Umberto.  There we settled for our first dinner on this part of the province.
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KALANGGAMAN ISLAND

Five years ago, I set foot on the powdery white sand surrounded by a mix of cerulean and turquoise waters of Kalanggaman Island in Palompon, Leyte.  It is a hidden sanctuary, a bird sanctuary as they say, thus, the name Kalanggaman (langgam means bird in Cebuano).  Privileged as we were, the whole island was left to our group, to bask and simply enjoy.

Fast forward to 2016, the island now appears a picnic area with a number of cottages and pitched colorful tents that sprout from every corner.  Despite the inevitable, the island retains its natural beauty, with the long stretch of the famed sandbar continuously mesmerizing the visitors.
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TACLOBAN CITY | IRONWOOD HOTEL

I was born and raised in Tacloban City.  Ever since I moved to Metro Manila for higher education and to earn a living, numbered are the days that I go home, and usually these are for special occasions.  To celebrate the Chinese New Year and because of a seat sale which my travel buddies have secured for me, I was able to visit my hometown unexpectedly.

Unexpected as it is, it is also the first time that I would be staying in a hotel at Tacloban City.  And that would be the newly-opened (1-day old), Ironwood Hotel.
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Tacloban City's downtown area is currently brimming with vendors and buyers.  Trade and commerce continues to flourish and that most home-grown entrepreneurs of the city has returned home.  It is no secret that Tacloban City houses almost all known food chain franchises in the likes of McDonald, Jollibee, KFC, Max's, Shakeys, Greenwich and a lot more, but there are quite a number of restaurants born and raised in the City of Tacloban.

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I grew up in Tacloban City knowing that there is only one festival that we celebrate and that is, the Pintados Festival. With my first homecoming for a Tacloban City fiesta last year, a new festival emerges (on my own vocabulary), that is, the Sangyaw Festival, and that Pintados Festival is now celebrated simultaneously with the Kasadyaan Festival.  

It was only then that I learned from fellow travel bloggers that the Sangyaw Festival has been celebrated since 2008.  And making my further research to feed my curiosity, Sangyaw Festival was held in the year 1974 and was cancelled in the year 1987.  Why?  Quite political in nature.

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Tacloban City is definitely back to business. The recent opening of the attention-drawer facade of one of the restaurants situated at P. Gomez Street is one of the indications.  A signage conspicuously displayed at the gate of the compound with a building painted in light blue can easily attract every passer-by to visit and dine at Chew Love.
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Photo by Paulo Monge at Barangay Sto, Nino, Tacloban City - current recipients of the #1pencil1notebook project
Hope emanated on the unpaved roads of the northern-most barangay of Tacloban City with the newly-built houses creating an instant community of former residents of Barangay San Jose, whose respective homes were completely destroyed by Typhoon Haiyan (Yolanda).


This is Barangay Sto. Nino of Tacloban City, fittingly named after the patron saint of the city and their children were the new recipients of our project #1pencil1notebook.  

In coordination with my high school alma mater, The Leyte Normal University, the project was a huge success and that an altruistic and priceless moment was felt by everyone involved in the project.  Truly, one of the moments when smile is contagious as we see the facial expressions of the children.

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invited guest- Tribu Lumad Basakanon of Cebu City
Excitement filled my veins on the 28th of June 2014.  I, along with friends from Manila, boarded the first flight to Tacloban City sleep-deprived.  Ever since typhoon Yolanda struck my hometown, I am inevitably bound to accept that early morning flights will be part of my itineraries.

The homecoming is not only for our project #1pencil1notebook but for the feast of Tacloban City in honor of Senor Sto. Nino, reunion with family and friends and for the annual Pintados-Kasadyaan Festival as well. Despite rumors on the non-holding of the festivities for this year, The Pintados-Kasadyaan Foundation headed by its executive chairperson, Mayor Remedios Petilla of Palo, Leyte, decided to push through with the event.

It was a huge success.

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That day.

My heart beats faster than a bullet train as I walked briskly like an ostrich in this not so ordinary day making the known and familiar path peculiar and unconventional.  Hunger and sleep deprivation is nowhere a concern.  It has been a long long walk, literally and figuratively speaking.

I came home.  To the home where my dreams were formed, personality and virtues molded, where my brothers and sisters from different mothers dwell, my immediate family gathers for an important occasion and the place I once left to temporarily bid farewell and confidently declare "I shall be back and you will be proud of me."  

8 November 2013- a day like no other - enigmatic, baffling and indecipherable. A day that changed the lives of every resident of the city. And two days after, the world knows where I am heading to, to my home - Tacloban City, Leyte.

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At Brgy. Anibong, Tacloban City, Leyte
It was exactly a hundred days after Super Typhoon Yolanda turned the City by the Bay into rubbles which caused innumerable lives to perish, when I find myself back into the arms of a place I call home - Tacloban City, Leyte.

The people of Tacloban are now slowly picking up the pieces of their shattered lives although the remnants of the super typhoon onslaught remains.  Barangays San Jose, Nula-tula, Magallanes and Anibong are among the most devastated areas of the city.

In celebration of the 18th birthday of our youngest sister, our family decided to conduct a feeding program and at the same time made the first wave of distribution of our project #1pencil1notebook. Hence, our homecoming.
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Majority of the festivals in the Visayas region is in veneration of Santo Nino.  The image of Santo Nino (child Jesus) is claimed to be the oldest religious image in the Philippines.  And two of the highly urbanized cities of the country houses the said image - Tacloban City and Cebu City.

The year 2013 tested the resilience and faith of the two cities' devotees as the natural catastrophes severely damaged their respective churches- Basilica Del Santo Nino of Cebu City and Basilica of Santo Nino de Tacloban, that is, the October high-magnitude earthquake and the November super typhoon and storm surge, respectively.

Whilst severely damaged, devotees continue to flock the said churches to honor the miraculous image, their patron saint, for expressions of gratitude, faith and hope of the life that is given.  December of 2013, I was able to visit both churches and can personally attest that these structures are testaments of the strong confession of faith that Filipino Catholic devotees have over Santo Nino.

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with the hope of leading somewhere - taken at San Jose, Tacloban City, Leyte

I am a grandson of a fisherman.  Every weekend we would go visit my maternal grandparents along with my parents and my brother back then.  There were times I would go fishing with my grandfather on board a canoe under the scorching heat of the sun and even on a gloomy weather.  Life was simple then.  And that was part of my childhood.

When my grandparents were getting ill, my mother’s siblings requested them to migrate to Metro Manila. And so they heeded and left the city.  When my maternal grandmother died at Metro Manila, my grandfather then insisted that he go back to our hometown to spend his twilight years.  And the rest is history.  Truly, there must be something special in our hometown.  And it was Tacloban City, Leyte.

We grew up in a subdivision where others refer to as the floating subdivision, that is, the V&G Subdivision, which occupies a large area of the topography of Tacloban City.  A heavy downpour of rain and so much more of typhoons would cause our subdivision to be isolated from the rest of Tacloban City.  Back then, as an innocent child and wishing for suspension of classes, it was indeed a great quality time to just eat together as a family on a relatively long dining table, laugh and share stories of all sort.  Our humble abode withstood all those natural calamities, be it an earthquake or typhoon.

I am the eldest of six and we are proud to say we were given the proper education by our middle-class parents.  Everything was a struggle for them especially with the age gaps that we have.  I am a CPA-Lawyer and my three brothers are a Physician-Medical Technologist, Electronics Communication Engineer and a Marine Deck Officer, respectively.  We have two sisters, one is a Certified Public Accountant and the youngest is currently in college taking up Architecture.  For further studies and career opportunities, we have to leave our hometown in the meantime but every special occasion demands an attendance at home.

For all the achievements that we made and endeavors we have to undertake, Tacloban City has always been there as our central support system.  And even on my quest to be a travel blogger, Eastern Visayas has been so supportive that in the 2013 October issue of Espejo Magazine, it was a full page feature of myself as a blogger.  No amount of words can be explained how grateful I am despite me being a prodigal son of the city.  By prodigal, meaning I am rarely seen in the city.

While continuous communication is made with my childhood friends despite the distance, we still get the excitement of having to meet in the city each time I go home.  It really feels good to be home. 

The year 2013 was an intended year for me in reconnecting and discovering more of my hometown and sharing it to the rest of the world.  After almost 15 years, I was able to witness the Pintados-Kasadyaan Festival and despite the typhoon, the show went on with a spectacular display of talents.  I was amazed and proud of the rich cultural heritage of my province.  From then on, several invitations were received from my childhood friends that we shall take a road trip of Samar and Leyte even if entails going home every weekend as my work is based in Metro Manila.  I did not accede with the simple reason that there are so many time for that.  I can always do that on holidays and long weekends if schedule permits.

Tacloban City was truly a highly urbanized city and more investors were willing to enter the market.  It was becoming organized and the local government indeed implemented its industrialized urban plan which I had the chance to had a sneak peek when I was in high school while my friend Jaja and I interviewed the then Mayor of Tacloban City, Bejo Romualdez back in the year 2004.  During that time I had doubts of the plan being implemented as how could the city construct an astrodome or an amphitheatre in a location which was then populated by residents in possession of the land since time immemorial?  And it was done as I saw it before my own eyes during my homecoming on December of 2011.

I am not a registered voter and if the same is a crime I would gladly surrender myself.  Thus, this is not to promote any political partisan but just to say that when given the resources and the concrete plan, in due time, a goal shall be achieved.

And 8 November 2013 came.  The day fate comes into play and changed the lives of every resident of the provinces of Leyte and Samar including my beloved hometown, Tacloban City.

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Unless otherwise stated, words and photographs on this travel blog belongs to me. The site started as a travel journal with only my friends as the readers.  I am not a creative writer nor a professional travel blogger but as time passes, the increased readership and traffic audience in this site has inspired me to continue to live on, travel and share despite the adversities of my life.  

Indeed, unexpected recognitions come when one does what he wants passionately. It is certainly a pleasure and an honor to be featured on the latest issue of Espejo Magazine, one of the known and widely circulated magazines in Eastern Visayas.

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I am a CPA-lawyer by profession and a full-time wanderer. My tsinelas (slippers) have been my constant companion in my quest to discover the world we live in. No matter which part of the world I am, though oftentimes mistaken of a different nationality, I am always proud to wear my slippers, a mark of a Filipino wanderer.

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