DAY HIKE TO TINGLAYAN VILLAGES OF KALINGA
The frequent tribal unrest and occasional outright war has hindered most to visit Kalinga Province. Today, these concerns have been eradicated as the preserved rich culture has been slowly known and opened to mountaineers, travelers and tourists.
In a few steps from our transient abode - the Riverside Inn of Luplupa Village - breakfast was prepared by its caretaker, Mang Johnny, at his home. It was an unusual way to start the day for me, not being a coffee drinker, as I sip on a cup of freshly brewed Kalinga coffee almost tasting like chocolate de batirol. And it was good. Indeed, the best way to start the all-day affair of traversing the mountain villages of Tinglayan.
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| THE KALINGA BREAKFAST |
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| KALINGA COFFEE |
LUPLUPA VILLAGE
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| AN OLD WOMAN CROSSING THE HANGING BRIDGE |
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| CHICO RIVER |
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| THE EVERYDAY AFFAIR OF CROSSING THE CHICO RIVER |
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| THE CALM CHICO RIVER |
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| GETTING CLOSE TO THE CHICO RIVER |
A GLIMPSE OF BUGNAY VILLAGE
AT MAR-O
At
the junction of Bugnay village is a small village named Mar-O. This will be our gateway to Buscalan as we
ride a tricycle (PhP100.00 fare) for an ascend instead of walking for hours. We stayed at the said village for a number of
hours the day before as we waited for the jeepney
that took us to Luplupa.
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| SOUVENIR SHOT WITH BUGNAY RICE TERRACES |
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| MAR-O VILLAGE |
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| TERRACED RICE FIELDS OF BUGNAY |
Bugnay is also connected by a hanging bridge to the national highway. It is more scenic however, with the rice paddies and terraces as its imposing landscape.
After a few minutes, the motorcycle ride to the entry point of Buscalan commenced. It was fast. Our travel time was surely cut-off.
BUSCALAN VILLAGE
Home
of Whang-Od, the last traditional Kalinga mambabatok (tattoo artist), the
hidden village of Buscalan is the most famous, if not the only known village of
Tinglayan. But there’s more to Whang-Od and getting inked when in
Buscalan.
The
trail commenced with a 360-degree panoramic view of rice terraces, forests and
endless mountain ranges. There is a
ropeway conveyor for cargo and other goods amidst the said landscape. According to Moises, our guide, it costs 1
peso for every kilogram. How about if I
go inside that conveyor?
The
trail was defined and at times concrete making it relatively easy. Despite the voluminous perspiration I had, the
walk was quite refreshing as the air we breathe is fresh. The scenic landscape adds up to a level of
walk in the park at times (but more often not).
The hike was even made manageable in the company of my travel buddies
and our guide, Moises.
We passed by a “mini” waterfalls before ascending further. It was a scenic refuge. There’s a potable water source to keep us hydrated at all times. Water bottles were filled-up before we continue the hike to Buscalan Village.
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| FEATURING THE ROPEWAY CONVEYOR |
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| THE MORNING SCENE EN ROUTE TO BUSCALAN |
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| THE TRAIL |
We passed by a “mini” waterfalls before ascending further. It was a scenic refuge. There’s a potable water source to keep us hydrated at all times. Water bottles were filled-up before we continue the hike to Buscalan Village.
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| LOCAL CHILDREN PLAY IN THE FALLS |
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| BUSCALAN FALLS |
Varied types of trees exist and infinite mountain ranges surround us as we move to a higher elevation. As soon as we arrived at the village, one of the houses at its forefront is that of Whang-Od. There’s a signage that declares the same to be hers with a photo printed in tarpaulin. To achieve the order of business, we searched for Whang-Od and she was on a tattoo session at the house of Grace, her niece.
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| THE GREEN ZONE OF BUSCALAN |
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| MARXTERMIND AND THE PAPER TREE |
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| A COMMON SIGHTING AT THE MOUNTAINS |
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| WELCOMING COMMITTEE TO BUSCALAN VILLAGE |
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| AT THE DOORSTEP OF WHANG-OD'S HOME |
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| KALINGA COFFEE SERVED ONCE AGAIN |
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| PHOTO SHOOT AT WHANG-OD'S HOME |
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| WHANG-OD AT WORK |
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| INKED BY THE LAST TRADITIONAL TATTOO ARTIST OF KALINGA |
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| OUR LUNCH AT BUSCALAN |
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| GROUP PHOTO |
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| AT ONE OF THE TRADITIONAL HOUSES OF BUSCALAN Photo by: Doi |
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| THE SIMPLE JOYS OF BUSCALAN |
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| THE MIDDAY DUTY |
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| VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS OF BUSCALAN |
LOCCONG VILLAGE
On
midday, we continued the hike towards another village situated at the
topmost of the mountains of Tinglayan. Harvest season coming up, the panoramic rice fields in terraces came into
view. More ascents came our way.
From
the top vantage, the cascade of rice terraces from the slopes with surrounding infinite
mountain ranges under the blue skies was a perfect panoramic view complemented by the
village of Buscalan which sits in the middle. It was a postcard worthy scene that I
have witnessed. I have never hiked on
midday with such a relief.
At
times my knees would shake from exhaustion, but I have to move on. I hiked at my own pace. I had an improvised trekking pole in the form
of a solid tree branch which makes my hiking experience bearable.
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| UP CLOSE WITH THE RICE FIELDS |
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| BUSCALAN VILLAGE ON A HIGHER VANTAGE |
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| ENDLESS MOUNTAIN VIEWS |
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| THE HIKE CONTINUES |
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| CEMENTED PATH TO LOCCONG VILLAGE |
Fortunately,
in less than an hour we were at the peak of a mountain where a cold breeze
greeted us despite the expected scorching heat of a midday sun. Pine trees surround as we get near the rural village
of Loccong.
“Welcome to the happiest village,” uttered by the barangay captain as soon as we entered the
village with an enclosed fence as if shouting of exclusivity. Our guide, Moises, has so many friends in
this village and children were calling him.
I even thought I was the one referred to by the children as I was
carrying a solid tree branch to aid my walk.
“Moises, Moises!” the children
summon and follow us as we roam around the village.
Peaceful
and laid-back atmosphere with aligned traditional wooden houses marks the
village of Loccong. I remember a
traditional Loccong house being displayed at Tam-Awan Village in Baguio and I was at awe. And now, I am actually at Loccong having a
grasp of these traditional houses.
After a few minutes of rest, we decided to walk towards the Butbut Proper.
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| TIME TO REST AT THE PEAK OF THE MOUNTAIN |
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| LOCCONG VILLAGE |
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| UNDER THE SHADE OF THE PINE TREES |
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| THE FENCED LOCCONG VILLAGE |
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| THE CHILDREN OF LOCCONG VILLAGE |
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| NATIVE PIGS ARE EVERYWHERE - THEY'RE LIKE PETS |
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| AT A TRADITIONAL LOCCONG HOUSE |
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| ORNAMENT |
After a few minutes of rest, we decided to walk towards the Butbut Proper.
BUTBUT-PROPER
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| AT THE PRECIPICE ON THE WAY TO BUTBUT PROPER |
Enroute,
we have passed by laborers and even the trail smells of dynamite. The road is a new one – still to be paved. With a guide familiar with the route and the
people, we know we are safe.
For
hours of walking, we finally made it to Butbut proper. We had snacks served at one of the houses
while we await for the motorcycles (PhP150.00 person) that will take us back to
the Poblacion then to Luplupa.
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| ROAD CONSTRUCTION LOCCONG TO BUTBUT ROUTE |
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| UNDER CONSTRUCTION |
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| THE INEVITABLE FOR ROAD USE |
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| OUR TOUR GUIDE MOISES AND FRIENDS AT WORK |
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| TENDING THE ROOTCROPS |
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| VIEW WHILE TRAVERSING THE LOCCONG-BUTBUT ROUTE |
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| THE CHILDREN OF BUTBUT |
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| BUTBUT VILLAGE |
After the sun sets, we traversed the mountains of Tinglayan on board the motorcycle on total darkness with only the headlights on passing by long and winding dirt roads of unknown depth of precipice.
TOUR GUIDE:
Moises Atuban Sr.
Contact No.: +63 9359195784
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| SUNSET IN THE MOUNTAINS |
Moises Atuban Sr.
Contact No.: +63 9359195784
3 comments
OMG! Whang Od! ang mura ng singil nya for the value of her works.
ReplyDeleteAll in all, how much did you spend for this trip? Just the estimate.
ReplyDeleteAll in all, how much did u spend for this trip? Just the estimate.
ReplyDelete